After waking up to a spectacular panoramic view of the Cordillera Blanca from the balconies of our rooms and enjoying breakfast, we will review the expedition itinerary. It is 6,344 metres high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6,260 m high. There are a few crevasses at about 17,060 feet (5,200m), which we’ll negotiate before entering the upper glacier. Detailed 6 day mountain weather forecasts … The pyramidal summit consists of a 250-foot (76m), 45° sloped snow field. You have sunscreen caked into every nook and cranny, but even that didn’t keep you […], By Mike Hawkins “Man, this is a really great pack…” I said it over and over for months until my wife had finally had enough of it. The Road to Siula Chico (PDF). We will dedicate the afternoon to rest and summit-day preparation. After breakfast, and with help from our porters, we’ll move up to the Pisco Oeste High Camp (16,260 ft./4,956m). From the top (18,138 ft./ 5,530m), the views to the south over the Cojup gorge lakes below and the surrounding mountains are exceptional. We’ll hike to the top of the Milluacocha moraine (15,338 ft. /4,675 m) to further acclimate, enjoy a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains and check the route up Urus peak. These individuals are dedicated to sharing their excellence with others. We can also count on our mountain porters’ help today. We’ll depart Huaraz and head north. We’ll return to the Andino Hotel for the night. We return to the Ishinca Hut by the same route. Everything was top notch, from the folks in Seattle to the hotel staff and accommodations in Lima nd Haurez…to Jose, the rest of the guides and El Toro and his porter crew. Ishinca summit day. As we move up closer to the summit we begin to scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock weaving our way to the summit pyramid. An alpine start will be needed, and we’ll leave the Ishinca hut by 4 a.m. We will ascend the steep moraine to the toe of the glacier (17,185 ft / 5,238m). After breakfast, we’ll take a bus to Lima expecting to arrive to the Peruvian capital at about 7:00pm. The quality of our Guide Staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors. Siula Grande es una montaña de la Cordillera Huayhuash, en los Andes del Perú, en el límite de los departamentos de Lima y Huánuco.
Overnight at the Andino Hotel. A little before the summit, we’ll meet two steep sections (50 to 55 degrees) linked by a traverse, although the actual difficulty varies season to season. Our priority will be to progressively acclimatize to the altitude, so we’ll continue with another hike to the foot of the Huarapasca glacier (16,283ft./ 4,963 m) where we will review climbing skills. Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. This journey will take approximately seven to eight hours. Private transfer to our hotel which is in the San Isidro district. We’ll overnight at the Ishinca Hut.
The logistics were seamless. Many of our guides have been with Alpine Ascents for over five years, with a handful of veterans working with us for most of their careers. Your back is sore and you have small bruises on your hips from your hipbelt. Mountain (climbing) weather forecasts for 5 elevations of Siula Grande, Peruvian Andes, Andes, Peru. In 1985, Simpson and climbing partner Simon Yates made a first-ascent of the previously unclimbed West Face of Siula Grande (6,344m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash of the Peruvian Andes. For a month-long expedition? From the control station at the halfway point, we can admire the remarkable rock formations known as the Ishinca Towers. Archived from the original (PDF) on October 31, 2008. Backpacking & Wilderness Navigation Course, Peru: Salkantay Mountain Trek to Machu Picchu, Gear Review: The North Face Phantom 50 pack. Translated by Carter, H. Adams. The route follows the east ridge of the mountain and is relatively short and straightforward. While 50 liters is a little small for most multi-day mountaineering and winter ski tours, the small size is plenty versatile […]. Our guides are an integral part of Alpine Ascents because they understand and share our climbing principles. Once past this obstacle, the glacier widens and flattens out. From the village of Yungay, we’ll turn off towards the Llanganuco gulley. Once in the village, our equipment and provisions will be loaded onto donkeys. Siula Grande is a mountain in the Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. The climb from the toe of the glacier to the top takes between three and four more hours, following the northeastern slopes of the mountain towards the northern arête and the pyramid summit. We’ll descend to High Camp and, after packing up, we’ll continue to the Peru-Pisco Hut with our porters’ assistance for a well-earned dinner and rest. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. The climb to the top of Urus Este takes about seven hours. Your flight arrives in Lima, the Peruvian capital. We’ll also have a Leave No Trace discussion and an equipment check. We’ll then return to the Ishinca Hut. The Ishinca Hut is located in the wide upper valley at 14,455 feet (4,406m). Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park. Upon our arrival in Huaraz, we’ll stay at the Andino Hotel, widely considered to be the best accommodation in the area.
Our walk up to where the Ishinca glacier begins will take approximately three hours. The guides were very professional, fun and easy to get a long with.
Overnight at the Andino Hotel. After summiting, we’ll descend to High Camp. Driving through this narrow canyon, we can see the striking north face of Huascaran Norte and the south face of Huandoy Sur, as well as the pretty turquoise lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha. We’ll follow the left side of the southwestern ridge until we meet a steep slope (165 feet at 50°). Siula Grande est une montagne dans la cordillère Huayhuash, dans les Andes péruviennes. She had to get one for herself. There, we’ll be driven back to Huaraz. In the afternoon, we will tour the city and visit the nearby Wilcahuain ruins. We’ll be taken in a comfortable first class bus ride to Huaraz, the capital of the Department of Ancash, and Base Camp for the Cordillera Blanca (White Andean Range), which is the second-highest mountain range in the world outside the Himalaya. • Sturm, Manfred (1967). Depart Country of Origin. We’ll climb the glacier to High Camp (17,904 ft./5,457m), located on a flat part of the glacier on the southwestern ridge. Today, with help from our porters, we’ll move on to the Chopicalqui moraine camp, nestled on the edge of the glacier at 16,476 feet (5,021m) above sea level. -2019 Climber. This mountain is an excellent climb for polishing up on glacier travel skills as well as achieving a better acclimatization level before we’ll continue to the highest mountains on our expedition: Pisco Oeste and Chopicalqui. Supper and a rest. For those heading into the backcountry with a female anatomy, […], By Mike Hawkins It has been a long day – one of the most demanding climbing days you have ever experienced. Those with limited time or climbing experience can return home on this day. We help facilitate this effort by passing on Leave No Trace training and literature to every Alpine Ascents climber. Huaraz – Pashpa – Ishinca Hut. This peak is great for acclimatization as well as for refreshing and/or learning the skills you need for glacier travel. We’ll first climb a moraine and then descend a rocky glacier to reach the moraine situated on the other side. We will enjoy a celebration meal in the evening. We know how to keep ourselves comfortable, clean, and efficient. This short hike will give our bodies a chance to begin the process of adapting to altitude while relishing the landscape of Churup Gorge, and its azure glacial lake at the foot of the snow-capped mountain of the same name. From Conococha (13,287 ft./4,050m), just a short distance from today’s final destination, we’ll enjoy our first view over the impressive Cordillera Blanca, and further south on the horizon we’ll also glimpse the Huayhuash Range, famous for its snow-peaked Yerupaja and Siula Grande mountains. Today we’ll climb Urus Este (17,782 ft./5,420m).